Researchers at the Chinese Academy of Sciences in Beijing have developed innovative textiles using the parasitic fungus Cordyceps militaris, potentially transforming sustainable fashion. These so-called ‘living textiles’ aim to be eco-friendly, biodegradable, and self-repairing.

Read More

The project is part of a broader effort to create next-gen sustainable materials that adapt and regenerate. Engineered living materials harness metabolically active cells to provide capabilities for self-repair and responsiveness to environmental stressors. A key challenge in this field is achieving structural integrity while maintaining biological activity at larger scales.

This new methodology successfully preserves the viability of C. militaris mycelia within larger films. Researchers cultivated the fungi in liquid culture to produce spherical mycelial pellets, which were then fused to create free-standing sheets. The addition of glycerol enhanced the material’s flexibility, enabling it to be shaped into complex designs without cracking. Notably, a rope made from the material supported a weight of 1 kg.

When cuts were made in the fabric, the material was able to self-repair upon the application of a few microliters of water and subsequent drying. Mechanical tests showed that the repaired samples maintained significant load-bearing capabilities, even after multiple repairs.

Additionally, the textiles demonstrated environmental responsiveness. By strategically applying a nutrient solution, researchers stimulated the growth of aerial hyphae—reproductive structures of the fungus—into various designs, including a snowflake and a maple leaf. The mycelium remained viable throughout this process.

The researchers also enhanced the textile’s capabilities by introducing engineered microbial partners. Yeast (Saccharomyces cerevisiae) was incorporated to produce pigments in various colors, while Aspergillus niger provided UV protection without affecting structural integrity.

Life cycle assessments revealed that the textiles biodegrade rapidly, with almost complete breakdown occurring within 41 days. This research illustrates the potential of programmable, environmentally responsive, and inherently sustainable living materials. A prototype dress has already been created, which incorporates pigment-producing yeast and aerial hyphae, further showcasing its applications in sustainable fashion.

While it may take time before Cordyceps textiles appear on fashion runways, the researchers emphasize that their work lays the groundwork for the development of adaptive living material platforms in various fields, including biomedical and architectural applications.