Simone Rocha unveiled her first standalone men’s collection on June 19, 2026, during Pitti Uomo, a prestigious menswear showcase in Florence. This presentation marked an unofficial kickoff to the Spring/Summer 2027 season and showcased Rocha’s evolution in menswear over the past five years, often partnering her creations with her womenswear collections.
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The collection features items reflecting Rocha's distinctive style, such as subversive rugby shirts and tailored pieces infused with elements of playfulness and sensitivity. Rocha emphasizes themes of identity and displacement throughout the collection, with models presenting pieces that blend masculine elements with a softer approach. For instance, boys wore broderie anglaise boxer shorts and shirts, contrasting street style with delicate floral bouquets.
Rocha chose the Teatro della Pergola, a 17th-century opera house, as her venue, reinforcing her connection to art and performance. This setting deviated from traditional fashion presentation spaces, further exploring ideas of journey and identity in her designs. According to Rocha, while her menswear typically exhibits a rugged essence, this collection aims to introduce a sense of tenderness, steering clear of femininity yet affirming a softer masculinity.
The collection features an eclectic mix of tailoring and character-driven pieces inspired by archives of the Teatro. Among these designs are painter’s smocks, dancer's mesh jerseys, and leather aprons, merging craftsmanship with whimsical details like pie-crust ruffles and floral embellishments.
By exploring historical references and personal narratives, Rocha’s collection encapsulates a broader identity. From unique footwear to accessories adorned with Victorian motifs, she has created a holistic experience. As Rocha continues to define her vision for menswear, excitement surrounds the possibilities for her next collections.