The Alexander McQueen brand made a notable return to London Fashion Week after 25 years, showcasing its collection in a subterranean 17th-century chapel. The show featured elements such as steel harnesses, bulky ankle-strapped heels resembling electronic monitoring tags, and a striking chain mail dress adorned with tiny silver skulls.
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The brand, once iconic under Lee McQueen in the 2000s, faced challenges following his tragic death in 2010. Successor Sarah Burton, celebrated for designing Kate Middleton's wedding dress in 2011, initially maintained the brand’s stature. However, the brand has recently encountered difficulties, including store closures and job losses, prompting a significant restructuring.
Gianfranco d’Attis, the new CEO since June, opted to bring McQueen back to London, where the brand retains strong reverence. The show underscored this decision's success, conveying that McQueen's impact resonates differently in its home city.
The updated business strategy emphasizes cutting back on casual wear in favor of evening gowns and British tailoring. Creative Director Seán McGirr, now in his third year, drew deep inspiration from British culture, choosing the vaulted venue to evoke a connection to his favorite painting, Piero della Francesca’s The Baptism of Christ. The collection featured jackets that honored the bold tailoring of Tommy Nutter and elements inspired by rave culture.
McGirr, 38, with his dimpled smile and soft Dublin accent, introduced lighter aesthetics to the collection. He designed an ivory lace dress with organza shoulder peaks, aiming for a look reminiscent of angel wings to convey an ethereal message.
In contrast, Roksanda's show took place in a rooftop garden adjacent to the National Theatre, showcasing bright cherry and lavender silk, celebrating feminine energy through craft and design.