Burberry and designer Celia Birtwell have both solidified their status as national treasures in the UK. Burberry, known for its luxury branding, teamed up with Birtwell, a textile designer famed for her 1960s bohemian prints and her connection to artist David Hockney. When Burberry's designer, Daniel Lee, met Birtwell earlier this year, he was drawn to “her energy, and her zest for life,” leading to a unique collaboration that concluded London Fashion Week.
Read More
Burberry's signature graphic check contrasts with Birtwell's vibrant florals and psychedelic designs. Initially pondering how to integrate her style with Burberry's classic check, Birtwell hand-painted a less rigid interpretation that resonated with Lee. “She made the check more human. If you are buying a luxury product it’s not a necessity, it’s an emotional purchase, so it needs to feel human,” Lee remarked. A nostalgic design featuring doodled smiley faces from Birtwell's archive also emerged as a key print for the collection.
The show, held near Burberry’s headquarters at Chelsea School of Art, featured an upbeat atmosphere characterized by charming prints and soft silhouettes. The eclectic front row included actor Fiona Shaw and footballer Djed Spence, with rapper Central Cee making a notable appearance on the catwalk.
Burberry is rebounding from challenges in recent years under the leadership of CEO Joshua Schulman and designer Lee. This summer, the brand announced its first revenue growth in three years, with retail sales rising 5% year-on-year in the second quarter. Schulman’s strategy focuses on providing “value for money in a luxury context” and shifting from high-priced handbags to more accessible options. Lee has infused a youthful, Gen Z perspective into Burberry's traditional British identity.
A significant aspect of Burberry's recovery has been a focus on outerwear, an area where it holds a strong competitive edge owing to its heritage. The summer collection offered trenches in luxurious silk taffeta, featuring puffball hems and ruched collars, with one model carrying an embroidered umbrella for potential summer rain.
To enhance its presence during London Fashion Week, Burberry is showcasing a small exhibition at the V&A Museum in South Kensington, running until January 3. The exhibit, titled "The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon," includes a military overcoat worn by a British army lieutenant colonel in 1939, designer Hardy Amies’ personal Burberry trench, and runway pieces crafted from metallic leather and gold snakeskin.