In his new memoir, *Threads, My Life in Style*, designer Paul Smith shares experiences from his career, including a moment during the Covid lockdown when he went to his empty offices dressed in a suit to regain a sense of normalcy. There, he found 18 containers of milk had burst on the floor, leading to three hours of clean-up. He humorously speculated if fellow designers like Giorgio Armani or Tom Ford were facing similar challenges. His colleagues remarked, “Oh no! Only Paul Smith…” which he took as a compliment.
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Smith's upbeat attitude and creativity have defined his work, as reported by the Financial Times. Described as the ideal ambassador for tailoring, he embodies a spirit of “merry eclecticism.” Having celebrated his 80th birthday in July, Smith continues to lead his company, which boasts around 120 shops globally. He holds a 69.5% stake in the independent brand, which has returned to highlighting the practical aspects of suits with its recent collection named “Suits in Unsuitable Situations,” showcased in Milan.
Despite fluctuating fashion trends impacting the luxury sector, Smith's brand thrives on classic essentials, particularly socks, with sales reaching 700,000 pairs annually.
Looking back, Smith humorously recalls his early perceptions of business knowledge, thinking VAT stood for vodka and tonic. This inspired him to establish the Paul Smith Foundation to provide practical advice to aspiring creatives. Born in Nottingham in 1946, he entered the workforce at 15, working as an errand boy in a clothing warehouse. A significant bike accident at 17 curtailed his racing dreams but opened doors through friendships with local art students, prompting his interest in fashion.
In 1970, with encouragement from his artist wife Pauline, Smith opened his first boutique in Nottingham. The 1970s proved to be a dynamic period for his brand. After gaining recognition in London, he expanded to New York, engaging with high-profile figures like Jack Nicholson and David Bowie. His appreciation for Yves Saint Laurent was evident, particularly with the introduction of “Le Smoking,” the first women's tuxedo by a major couture house. Smith's major breakthrough came with the financial boom from the Big Bang in 1986, attracting young urban professionals to his Covent Garden shop, where they found innovative suits featuring bold colors and unique linings.
As noted by The Guardian, the brand reached its peak in the 1990s. Reflecting on recent challenges, Smith acknowledges a decline in relevance but emphasizes resilience with the motto “never assume.” He credits hard work and continuous reassessment for his longevity in the industry, stating that success isn’t about past accomplishments but about ongoing effort.