John Galliano's collaboration with Zara, unveiled during Paris Fashion Week, showcases an extensive use of synthetic materials. This comes as no surprise in the fast fashion landscape, which heavily relies on problematic plastics. The collection, titled Re{form}, includes 157 items priced between $29.99 and $999.99, with many garments made from polyester, polyamide, polyurethane, and acrylic, despite also incorporating wool, silk, viscose, and cotton.
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The launch arrives amid a challenging backdrop for both Galliano and the fashion industry. His retrospective at the Met Museum was canceled in August following criticism related to his past antisemitic remarks. The collaboration with Zara has sparked debate regarding the appropriateness of a designer known for luxury moving into fast fashion. As Cathaleen Chen noted in Business of Fashion, reactions have ranged from seeing it as a significant opportunity for Zara to viewing it as a low point for Galliano.
The fashion industry faces ongoing scrutiny over its reliance on synthetic materials, which comprised 69% of all fibers produced in 2025, with polyester alone accounting for 59%. This reliance is driven by demand for low-cost performance materials. Although some brands promote recycled polyester as an environmentally friendly option, experts warn that polyester remains a concerning material due to its fossil fuel origins, energy-intensive production, and negative environmental impact, including microplastic pollution.
The release of Galliano's collection reaffirms existing criticisms of fast fashion's unsustainable practices and its prioritization of growth over environmental concerns.