Concerns About Exosome Treatments in Skin Care

Exosomes are small particles released by cells that facilitate communication between them. Dr. Gina Maccarone, a triple board-certified cosmetic surgeon and founder of The Surgeonista in Cincinnati, explains that unlike stem cells, which are living cells capable of dividing and differentiating, exosomes are non-living and cannot replicate.

In aesthetic applications, exosomes are sought for their potential to rejuvenate skin, reduce inflammation, improve recovery after procedures such as lasers and microneedling, and aid in hair loss when injected into the scalp. Most applications, however, are topical.

Despite the interest, experts indicate that there is a lack of comprehensive long-term data on the effectiveness of exosome treatments for skin and hair improvement. Maccarone notes that current studies are mostly short-term and open-label, making it difficult to determine how lasting any observed results might be. She cautions against any claims of dramatic or enduring outcomes due to this insufficiency of evidence. One controlled trial showed some improvement in hair density alongside microneedling, but Maccarone emphasizes that microneedling alone may also explain these results. The available evidence suggests only modest improvements in skin texture and quality.

Due to the unregulated nature of this industry, Maccarone highlights safety and quality concerns. She advises consumers to investigate the following before undergoing exosome treatments:

1. The source of the exosomes (e.g., umbilical cord, platelets).

2. How the product was tested for sterility, identity, and potency.

3. Whether the treatment is topical or injectable.

4. If it is part of an FDA-authorized clinical trial.

5. The risks and reported side effects associated with the treatment.

Maccarone strongly recommends a cautious approach, suggesting that exosome treatments should be considered only as adjuncts to established procedures for skin quality goals. She particularly warns against practices offering intravenous or systemic exosome infusions, which remain experimental and under study. Women who are pregnant or breastfeeding, immunocompromised individuals, and those with a personal history of cancer should also avoid these treatments.