At Shanghai Fashion Week on Friday, Chinese designer brand Tuyue introduced its Spring/Summer 2027 collection titled Suchness. The collection draws inspiration from the Water-Moon Guanyin statues of the Liao and Jin dynasties (916-1234) and incorporates custom fragrance into the runway experience for the first time. This integration aims to express Eastern philosophy through a combination of clothing, light, and scent.
Read More
In partnership with an incense brand, Tuyue created an all-natural osmanthus fragrance that is contained in delicate sachets. These sachets release scent as the models walk, enhancing the multisensory experience of the show.
Yang Yingying, Tuyue's founder and creative director, stated that the goal is for audience members to feel as if they are already part of the scent by the time they notice it. She emphasized the historical continuity between scent and apparel in traditional Chinese aesthetics, allowing spectators to experience the central theme of being immersed in the collection.
The design team did not mimic Guanyin imagery directly; instead, they deconstructed elements such as flowing robes and beaded ornaments, reinterpreting them across more than 60 outfits on the runway. Yang described the collection's solemn aura as a natural outcome of three months of meticulous craftsmanship.
This season's Suchness marks a departure from the previous Zenith collection, which featured a quieter presentation. The new collection embraces a more outward-facing approach, reflecting the evolution of individual experiences shaped by connections and encounters.
Founded in 2008, Tuyue has evolved alongside its founder's vision, shifting from artistic storytelling to philosophical exploration. The brand is anchored in Chinese aesthetics and consistently features moon phases as a visual symbol, which it modernizes each year while maintaining its cultural significance. Furthermore, Tuyue is now venturing into fragrance as an independent creative medium with plans to launch an incense line in collaboration with traditional artisans, beginning with the osmanthus blend featured in the show, along with moon-themed sachet accessories in development.