The fashion industry significantly relies on agricultural practices, with its influence spanning approximately 1.45 billion hectares, nearly one-third of the world’s agricultural land. This figure was presented by DIRT Charity, founded in 2021, which aims to bridge the gap between fashion and sustainable farming through research and education.
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The charity's recent collaboration with the University of Oxford produced a report entitled The Climate and Agricultural Impact of Textile Production, discussed at the Eco Age Forum during Climate Week NYC. The report highlights that the methods used in farming fibers like cotton, wool, and leather are as crucial as the fibers themselves.
Through engagement with farmers, DIRT learned that agricultural practices greatly impact soil health and crop yields. For example, approximately 40% of a cotton field is harvested as lint for textiles, while 55% is used for oil and feed. Hence, transitioning to better farming practices can positively affect the entire farming system.
Most of the agricultural land related to the fashion industry is utilized for grazing cattle and sheep, which also contributes to the production of meat and dairy. The report argues that withdrawing from these materials does not address underlying issues but rather shifts responsibility elsewhere. Instead, sustainable grazing practices can be adopted, focusing on soil health and biodiversity.
The research indicates that how fibers are produced is often more significant than the type of fiber itself. Variations in emissions from processes like mycelium leather production demonstrate that not all sustainable labels reflect true environmental impact.
DIRT is developing the Demeter Textile Standard to trace the journey of fibers from the soil to finished products and back, ensuring they are compostable. Studies suggest that organic and biodynamic farming systems support a greater diversity of beneficial insects and wildlife compared to conventional methods. Although critics often argue about lower yields in organic farming, this assessment often overlooks the benefits of biodiversity and multiple crop cultivation.
The report recommends fashion brands set sourcing goals that prioritize farming methods and verified outcomes, rather than focusing exclusively on fiber types. It also calls for regulatory changes to enhance the visibility of sustainable farming practices. Investors should reconsider their assessments of supply chain impacts and inquire about the agricultural methods used in fiber production.
Ultimately, the findings aim to initiate a constructive dialogue within the fashion sector, emphasizing that sustainable practices are achievable and essential for ecological restoration.