Maria Grazia Chiuri has embraced a more playful approach to fashion since returning to Rome to design for Fendi. "I have less of a uniform these days. I think being back here makes me feel young again. I’m not sure my daughter appreciates this attitude! But I don’t care," she shared during a preview ahead of her Milan Fashion Week show.
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Chiuri emphasized the seriousness of her role, describing her latest ready-to-wear season not merely as a collection but as "the second part of the project I am working on for them." Continuing her tradition from her time at Dior, she aims to use each collection to celebrate women’s creativity. This season, however, her muse is the late Italian pop legend Raffaella Carrà.
Described as a "one-woman Abba," Carrà was known for her distinctive bob hairstyle and bold sequined outfits. She made waves on Italian television in the 1970s with her revealing attire and empowering lyrics, such as those in "A Far L’Amore Comincia Tu," which translates to "Take the lead when making love." Carrà passed away in 2021 at the age of 78.
Chiuri praised Carrà as "an incredible feminist" with a liberated relationship with fashion. On the runway, this influence manifested in sheer 1970s-inspired dresses with flowing hems, visible lace bras, embroidered waistcoats, and vintage fur stoles. Men’s shirts were featured with unbuttoned fronts down to the navel.
This Milan Fashion Week also saw a major event organized by Vogue, transforming Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II into a catwalk featuring stars like Jennifer Lopez in Dolce & Gabbana and Cardi B in vintage Versace. The event included live performances from Alicia Keys and ballet dancer Roberto Bolle.
As Vogue increases its focus on live events to bolster its revenue amidst declining print sales, Vogue World Milano follows last year’s successful Vogue World: Hollywood in LA, which generated $30 million (£23 million).
While the event showcased Italian craftsmanship, it also highlighted a growing reliance on sponsors from Silicon Valley, including Meta Glasses and OpenAI. The finale featured two dancing robots, which received a lukewarm reception from the prominent designers in attendance.