London Fashion Week witnessed a significant event when Seán McGirr presented his debut collection for Alexander McQueen, following Sarah Burton's departure in October 2023. McGirr, who had previously worked for Jonathan Anderson at JW Anderson, faced scrutiny from fashion insiders and fans as he took the helm of a brand deeply tied to its late founder, Lee Alexander McQueen, who passed away in 2010.
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In March 2024, McGirr's first collection made its debut in Paris, eliciting mixed reactions. Some praised its raw edge, while others were critical of its divergence from Burton's polished aesthetic. This season, McGirr returned the brand to London's Fashion Week, which it had exited in 2001, signaling a desire to reconnect with McQueen's roots.
The show took place in a grand Tudor-era gatehouse in Bloomsbury, where McGirr drew inspiration from Piero della Francesca's painting, The Baptism of Christ. He aimed to blend neoclassicism with elements of London’s rave culture, noting backstage that, “This painting represents this idea of transcendence, serenity—these words I could not get out of my mind.” McGirr expressed an affection for London’s unique fashion identity, emphasizing its unconventional and playful approach.
His collaboration with Huntsman of Savile Row, McQueen's original tailor, resulted in adventurous tailoring that shaped the body in innovative ways. While previous collections seemed to aim for a younger demographic, this collection reflected a wider creative ambition.
A recent auction highlighted the brand's continued relevance, as an ensemble originally designed by Lee McQueen fetched $1,586,000. This raised questions about the brand's future and whether McGirr can balance its artistic heritage with its commercial aspirations under the Kering Group. Critics ponder whether it's feasible for McGirr to bring both the perverse creativity of McQueen and the polished appeal expected by today’s luxury market.
Another notable figure at London Fashion Week was Christopher Kane, who launched a new runway line for Mulberry after his own label faced challenges three years prior. Kane's debut attempted to revive the brand's status with fresh energy, although it lacked the vibrant character some had anticipated. Nonetheless, his show received enthusiastic applause, suggesting a potential resurgence for both Kane and Mulberry in the contemporary fashion scene.