Andrew Rayner, founder of the independent scalp-health brand Hairetic, argues that recent studies on scalp microbiomes and lipids present new insights into dandruff treatment and challenge popular scalp care trends.
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Two studies published in mid-2026 demonstrate how different treatments can alter the scalp's bacterial and fungal communities, as well as its lipid levels. The July study in the *International Journal of Cosmetic Science* noted improvements in clinical signs of dandruff after using piroctone olamine shampoo, while a September study in the *British Journal of Dermatology* explored the effect of microbial-targeted shampoos on scalp lipids.
With a 100% year-on-year increase in searches for “scalp care,” according to Google Trends, consumers are increasingly exposed to complex hair care routines shared on social media. Hairetic identifies five common misconceptions surrounding these viral trends and calls for a more personalized approach.
1. **Scalp Training and Washing Frequency:** The idea of “scalp training,” where individuals wash their hair less, lacks scientific support. Rayner cautions that this could exacerbate issues for those with dandruff or oily scalps, noting that washing frequency should be tailored to individual needs rather than general trends.
2. **Flaky Scalps and Hair Oils:** Many assume flakes indicate dryness, leading to the popularity of oil treatments. However, Rayner clarifies that dandruff can involve Malassezia, a microorganism that thrives on lipids. Hairetic uses rosemary leaf extract to avoid complications associated with oils.
3. **Dry Shampoo:** While dry shampoo can provide quick fixes, it does not substitute traditional washing. The American Academy of Dermatology advises continued use of regular shampoo to maintain scalp health.
4. **Scalp Exfoliation:** Increasing interest in scalp exfoliation may lead people to confuse visible flakes with the underlying condition. Hairetic promotes gentle exfoliation with willow bark extract rather than harsh physical scrubs.
5. **Aggressive Cleansing:** There is a misconception that dandruff requires aggressive cleansing. Rayner points to recent research indicating the importance of maintaining the scalp's microbial balance rather than stripping it of oils.
Hairetic emphasizes that each scalp's needs are unique, influenced by factors like hair texture, oiliness, and skin conditions. Instead of adhering to viral beauty trends, consumers should tailor their scalp care to address their specific issues. Rayner advises, “Good scalp care starts with understanding the problem you're actually trying to solve.”