Rick Owens has launched his Spring/Summer 2027 womenswear collection, titled "Stone," which explores themes of stoicism, liberation, and resistance to intolerance. The collection features a shifting color palette that transitions from light tones to burgundy and black.
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Owens uses the metaphor of stone to reflect various concepts: the strength in facing difficulty, the liberation evoked by the stone rolled away from Christ’s tomb, and the stones thrown at marginalized groups. He notes that light symbolizes not only innocence but also the courage to confront darkness without succumbing to it. This perspective aligns with remarks he made in an October 2025 interview, where he expressed a desire to balance a dystopian vision with warmth and hope.
The collection showcases the millefoglie jackets, which require 45 hours of handwork to construct, each made from thousands of individually cut circles in recycled nylon tulle. The process involves sewing these circles onto a tulle base, which is then applied to a heavy cotton poplin support, reflecting Owens's intricate design methods.
The collection also employs materials such as industrial nylon and pure silk, highlighting Owens's commitment to quality by sourcing from suppliers in Como, Italy. The show begins with lighter shades and progressively incorporates darker hues, featuring washed denim that forms wide silhouettes and high collars, complemented by a striking white dress with a long train and black organza elements.
Owens continues to challenge traditional body proportions with garments that reshape and redefine the figure. He founded his label in Los Angeles in 1994 and made his runway debut in New York in 2002, later moving to Paris in 2003 with collaborator Michèle Lamy. Known for blending glamour with grunge, Owens's design philosophy emphasizes the body’s mortality within an industry that often favors idealized forms.
This collection aligns with his previous works, including the Tower collection displayed in autumn/winter 2026, where he integrated innovative materials such as Kevlar and Himalayan wool. His approach to menswear in the Stone collection showcased tension-capturing structures and wearable technology, bridging style with functional design.
Owens's design philosophy also extends to his furniture line, launched in collaboration with Lamy in 2007, featuring materials like concrete and petrified wood. His furniture works are currently on display in Milan at the VOENA gallery, showcasing a dialogue between Carol Rama’s art and Owens’s sculptural furniture.