
The spring/summer 2027 edition of Milan Fashion Week showcased the evolving visions of various Italian luxury houses as creative directors established their unique styles. Key collections included Prada’s examination of skirts in numerous interpretations, Maria Grazia Chiuri's novel approach for Fendi, and Demna's conceptual Gucci shop setting. Below are the top ten shows that stood out.
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1. **Prada**
At the menswear show in June, co-creative directors Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons explored minimalism through the controversial skinny trouser silhouette, transitioning into a womenswear collection centered on skirts. Described in the show notes as a “Prada obsession,” skirts were presented in diverse styles, from embellished to collegiate looks. Accessories ranged from knitwear echoing Mrs. Prada’s uniform to printed crop tops and distressed leather. The designers highlighted how styling can alter perceptions, showcasing a variety of personas for the upcoming spring season.
2. **Etro**
With the departure of Marco de Vincenzo, Etro's spring/summer collection was crafted by its in-house studio. Though it may not have ventured in a new direction, it emphasized the house's bohemian essence with frilly, paisley dresses and airy kaftans. While current trends lean towards Pucci, the right future hire could elevate Etro's status as a summer staple for stylish jet-setters.
3. **Jil Sander**
Creative director Simone Bellotti continued to attract fans with his approach to minimalism infused with edge. His latest collection illustrated the concept of imperfection, starting with structured blazers and transitioning to loose, flowing shapes in a soft color palette. The show encapsulated the emotional release through relaxed styles, integrating modern silhouettes into the display.
4. **Fendi**
In her second collection for Fendi, Maria Grazia Chiuri embraced whimsy, with models wearing light slip dresses and fur stoles against disco beats. Emphasizing the notion of clothes as a second skin, her offerings included transparent silks and folkloric accessories, reflecting a joyous spirit and a touch of romance.
5. **Marni**
New creative director Merryl Rogge showcased her vision in a striking set designed by Formafantasma. Her collection, filled with unexpected combinations and oversized silhouettes, echoed Marni’s idiosyncratic charm. While she explores her signature, her playful designs invite customers to embrace creativity.
6. **Tod's**
Matteo Tamburini focused on personal style through everyday aesthetics. His collection blended classic Bermuda shorts and oversized blazers with bold leather pieces, exemplifying a mix of modernism and casual wear. Highlights included new iterations of Tod's iconic Gommino loafers, with the potential for increased interest in ready-to-wear.
7. **Gucci**
Demna crafted a retail-themed environment for the Gucci show, unveiling a two-part collection featuring both preppy and edgy styles. The lineup included jumpers and riding boots alongside more dramatic elements like pagoda shoulders. The collection’s focus aimed to both engage customers and revitalize the brand following financial difficulties.
8. **Ferragamo**
Maximilian Davis presented a collection rich in earthy tones and sensual silhouettes, inspired by a historic moment for working women in the 1940s. The blend of structured designs and sheer materials signifies Davis’s growth and direction for the luxury label, featuring elements like cinched waists and modernized pockets.
9. **Moschino**
New creative directors Simone Rizzo and Loris Messina debuted their vision on a parking garage rooftop, celebrating vibrant colors and whimsical details. Their collection boldly incorporated offbeat elements while maintaining a connection to the eclectic spirit of the brand's founder.
10. **Armani**
Silvana Armani's collection showcased practicality, combining monochromatic outfits, Bermuda shorts, and boxy outerwear. With her innovations, such as the introduction of cotton, she ensures the preservation of the brand's lineage while exploring a new direction. Eveningwear and butterfly appliqués symbolized metamorphosis as the label enters its next chapter.