
The U.S. cosmetics industry utilizes thousands of chemicals in beauty and personal care items. Until recently, federal oversight of these chemicals was minimal, lacking significant updates for over 80 years.
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In 2022, the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulations Act (MoCRA) mandated that cosmetics companies register their facilities and disclose product ingredients to the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for the first time. The law also required companies to confirm product safety, establish a system for reporting serious adverse events, and authorize mandatory recalls.
However, Janet Nudelman, senior director at Breast Cancer Prevention Partners, pointed out that MoCRA did not address ingredient safety, which remains a critical concern for consumers. As states begin banning specific chemicals, federal lawmakers introduced bills in 2022 aimed at enhancing safety and transparency in cosmetics. Some companies have voluntarily removed harmful chemicals from their products, and recent years have heightened awareness of the disproportionate exposure to toxic chemicals among women of color, prompting calls for beauty justice in regulations.
Key ingredients to watch for include phthalates, parabens, formaldehyde, PFAS, and coal tar dyes. These chemicals are often found in many personal care products and may disrupt endocrine systems, potentially raising cancer and reproductive risks. Despite this, the FDA restricts or prohibits only a handful of the over 10,000 chemicals used in these products, while the European Union has banned more than 2,500.
Alexandra Grose from Consumer Reports emphasized the lack of transparency in the cosmetics industry, stating consumers shouldn't need specialized knowledge to buy safe products.
Phthalates are commonly found in fragranced products; they are not always listed clearly on labels due to their inclusion in fragrance mixes considered trade secrets. These chemicals have been linked to serious health issues, including breast cancer and fertility problems. Studies found higher levels of phthalates in products used by Black women, underscoring heightened risks.
Parabens, used as preservatives in water-based products, are found in many cosmetics and can mimic estrogen, disrupting the hormonal balance. Similar to phthalates, higher concentrations of parabens have been detected in products marketed to Black women.
Formaldehyde-releasing preservatives are common in hair and makeup products. While formaldehyde itself is a known carcinogen, many products contain preservatives that slowly release it over time. Advocates have documented high usage of these products among women of color, raising additional health concerns.
PFAS, used for waterproof or long-lasting claims in cosmetics, are harmful as they persist in the environment and the body. Exposure has been linked to various health issues, and studies found significant PFAS contamination in multiple cosmetic items.
Coal tar dyes, prevalent in hair dyes and cosmetics, often contain harmful chemicals and can lead to allergic reactions, skin sensitivity, and other health issues.
Further complicating matters, contaminations from harmful substances like lead and benzene can occur without being disclosed on labels. For instance, a Consumer Reports investigation found carcinogenic contaminants in synthetic braiding hair products and high mercury levels in certain creams.
In response to the need for improved safety, consumers are encouraged to read ingredient labels carefully, opt for products labeled as free from harmful chemicals, and utilize apps that help identify hazardous ingredients. Many states have begun to adopt stricter regulations, with California leading in banning toxic chemicals. Recent federal efforts, including the introduction of the Safer Beauty Bill Package, aim to address these issues at a national level, although passage remains uncertain.