Shiseido has discovered a cilantro fruit extract that may eliminate senescent skin cells, often referred to as "zombie cells," while promoting healthy skin cells. This development aligns with the growing trend of integrating scientific advancements into cosmetic skincare.
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The extract is part of Shiseido's extensive research in regenerative medicine, which spans over two decades. It is believed to operate through a dual mechanism: selectively removing senescent fibroblasts and increasing the population of healthy fibroblasts, potentially enhancing collagen production. Fibroblasts are crucial for producing collagen and maintaining skin structure.
Unlike traditional anti-aging ingredients that typically focus on stimulating existing cells, this approach addresses the accumulation of dysfunctional cells that secrete inflammatory molecules known as SASP factors, contributing to accelerated tissue aging. The burgeoning field of senolytics aims to remove these ineffective cells as a means of treating age-related conditions, and Shiseido sees potential applications in cosmetic skincare.
The origins of this discovery can be traced back to hair regenerative research initiated in the late 1990s, when Shiseido identified compounds in cilantro that promoted hair follicle growth. Further studies revealed that specific fatty acids in the extract also influenced dermal fibroblasts.
Laboratory tests indicated that the extract prompted apoptosis in senescent fibroblasts without harming healthy cells. In mixed cultures of both cell types, researchers observed reduced aging markers, such as SA-β-Gal and P21, along with enhanced collagen production associated with the increase in healthy fibroblasts.
While these findings remain in the preclinical stage and have yet to be applied in finished products or human trials, they exemplify the industry's shift towards regenerative biology in skincare innovation, looking to tackle the biological mechanisms of aging rather than merely its visible effects.