Highlights from the Autumn/Winter 2026 Womenswear Collections

At Saint Laurent, Anthony Vaccarello presented a collection that emphasized sharp tailoring with a modern twist. The show opened with reimagined Le Smoking suits characterized by fluid lines and a stark elegance. The collection featured rich colors, including chocolate, rust, and deep browns, with sheer lace dresses, low necklines, and oversized fur coats that merged opulence with restraint, highlighting themes of power and vulnerability.

Schiaparelli's Daniel Roseberry focused on a disciplined interpretation of the brand's surrealism with a collection inspired by a “Sphynx” mood. Strong-shouldered coats, sleek black suits, shearling and faux-fur outerwear complemented fluid gowns, all rendered in a palette of black, bronze, ivory, and metallic finishes. Trompe-l’oeil textures and gold hardware infused the pieces with Schiaparelli’s signature allure, balancing theatricality with precise tailoring.

Shiatzy Chen's collection, titled “Carved by Motion”, integrated elements from Tang dynasty garments into modern designs. The collection showcased high-waisted Tang dresses and elongated ruqun-inspired silhouettes in vibrant tones like orange, green, gold, and jadeite-white. Details like jade inlays and bags mimicking jade bracelets added a contemporary twist to imperial richness.

The Row redefined minimalism with textured, slouchy designs that exuded emotional depth. Key pieces included slim black coats and chiffon veils, balanced by raw edges and meticulously cut trousers. The collection emphasized a lived-in elegance with understated confidence, hallmarks of The Row’s aesthetic.

Tod’s women’s collection by Matteo Tamburini highlighted Italian craftsmanship, featuring sculptural leather outerwear and the new Pashmy skin, which offered a lighter, silkier feel. Rich natural tones dominated the collection, with equestrian details and refined stitching woven throughout, maintaining a strong artisanal identity.

Alessandro Michele’s “Interferenze” for Valentino brought together baroque drama and fashion history. The collection featured structured shoulders and fluid draping in jewel tones, with satin cummerbunds and lace elements creating a sense of contrast. The signature richness of Michele's work was tempered by a more structured approach, underscoring a dialogue between tradition and innovation.

Finally, Andreas Kronthaler's collection for Vivienne Westwood paid tribute to Austrian actress Romy Schneider, blending historic and punk influences. The show opened with chequered car coats over lingerie-inspired dresses, showcasing a mix of oversized hats, netted veils, and latex skirts. The finale humorously featured a bridal suit adorned with radishes, illustrating Westwood's signature satirical approach to fashion.