Giorgio Armani is undergoing a transformation following the founder’s passing last year. Dario Vitale has been appointed as creative director of Emporio Armani, while discussions regarding a stake sale mandated by Mr. Armani's will are expected to commence soon, with LVMH and L’Oréal among the potential buyers.
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At Silvana Armani’s second ready-to-wear show for the brand, titled Evolution, the theme of continuity was prominent. The spring 2027 collection was showcased at the Armani/Teatro, reimagined as a sleek discoteca with plush seating around a gridded dance floor and a striking disco ball. The collection featured a fresh interpretation of the house's signature styles, combining languid tailoring with vibrant eveningwear in a color palette of ivory, black, and gold.
The backbone of the collection consisted of menswear-inspired jackets. From the outset, a black-and-ivory pin-dot double-breasted jacket with structured shoulders and wide-leg ivory trousers indicated a shift towards a more tailored silhouette. Although Mr. Armani was known for minimizing traditional suit padding, his niece incorporated selective padding back into the designs. According to the show notes, she emphasized that "style is a way of being" and that identity can evolve while maintaining its core essence.
The concept of the suit was also expanded, allowing for mixed separates, such as pairing a black jacket with gold-stripe trousers or vice versa. Tuxedo jackets were layered over sequin tops or tucked into luxurious pleated Bermuda shorts, creating a standout look of the collection. These shorts were styled with a variety of pieces, including quarter-zip hoodies and embellished bustiers.
Reflecting contemporary dressing trends among young women, the collection embraced a mix of styles, often incorporating sequins for earlier occasions. Most outfits featured flat footwear like slim loafers, neoprene knee boots, or peep-toe d’Orsays, while a few heels were designed in more comfortable kitten and platform styles. Accessories included jeweled brooches and pendants with butterfly motifs, symbolizing transformation, complemented by simple pouches and clutches.
In a surprising twist for the house, the show concluded with models walking to Depeche Mode's "Enjoy the Silence," allowing the collection to convey its message before Silvana Armani took her bow beneath the disco ball.