The intricate zardozi embroidery on a Dior dress, T-strap leather sandals showcased by Prada, and the mirror-work technique on Fendi bags reflect the longstanding craftsmanship of Indian artisans, who have silently contributed to premier fashion for decades. Now, Indian craftsmanship is gaining attention, especially through Chanakya International, a Mumbai-based textile and embroidery atelier celebrating its 40th anniversary this month with exhibitions highlighting its evolution into a cultural institution. Led by 49-year-old Karishma Swali, whose father founded the group in the 1980s, Chanakya boasts a network of 1,400 artisans, some tracing their skills back 13 generations, proficient in numerous embroidery techniques for luxury brands.
Read More
Swali emphasized India's unique textile heritage, claiming it is unrivaled globally. While European nations had established textile traditions during the Renaissance, India retains techniques that many parts of the world have lost. Among their revived techniques is Mughal-era chaand jaal, or silver filigree lace, which has become a staple in high fashion.
In 2023, Dior showcased its partnership with Chanakya at the Gateway of India in Mumbai, featuring sari-inspired skirts and Nehru-collar jackets. This collaboration demonstrates the blend of historical craftsmanship with modern luxury, supported by traditional knowledge requiring institutional backing. The Kalhath Institute in Lucknow, co-founded by Mohammed Amine Dadda, aims to preserve such crafts through artist residencies that connect local artisans with international artists. Dadda highlights the “intelligence of the hand,” a meticulous process that is essential for haute couture.
Indian craftsmanship isn't confined to textiles; it extends to jewelry, as seen in the work of the Jaipur-based Gem Palace, established in 1852. Samarth Kasliwal, a current family member, noted that Indian artistry is deeply influenced by nature, featuring floral and animal motifs. A notable project he referenced is a Dior collection featuring pieces inspired by traditional Indian jewelry.
With increasing visibility, discussions around appropriation in fashion have intensified. Recently, a Ralph Lauren gown sparked debate over alleged Indian zardozi embroidery without attribution, while Fendi faced criticism for not crediting Indian mirror-work despite collaborating with Chanakya artisans. After inquiries, Fendi acknowledged its long-standing partnership and updated its product descriptions to reflect its Indian heritage.
Past controversies, such as Prada's use of Kolhapuri-inspired sandals, led to greater recognition and collaboration efforts, including a training program for local artisans. Swali's Chanakya School of Craft, founded in 2016, is aimed at making skilled training accessible, particularly for women.
Anthropologist Phyllida Jay noted that the evolving narrative around Indian crafts in the luxury fashion sector signifies a broader shift towards greater representation and acknowledgment. Swali believes it is crucial for artisans to have a voice in how their work is presented, further emphasizing the need to elevate India's craftsmanship on the global stage.