The spring/summer 2027 fashion month is underway, transitioning from New York to London and now arriving in Milan, where a new wave of creative directors is shaping the legacy of Italian fashion. Dario Vitale, known for his appeal among maximalist street style enthusiasts, has recently been appointed as the creative director for Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani accessories. Anticipation builds as Vitale's debut is set for early next year.
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At Moschino, Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo, the designers behind the young brand Sunnei, are stepping into the roles of creative directors. With a background in menswear before moving to womenswear, they are recognized for their use of bright colors, streamlined silhouettes, and performance elements in runway shows. Moschino, founded by Franco Moschino in 1983, has seen various leadership styles over the years, and Messina and Rizzo’s fresh approach promises to reinvigorate the brand.
This season also marks a significant one for established fashion houses such as Gucci, Marni, and Fendi, as they unveil sophomore collections under new creative direction. Demna has introduced body-conscious styles, while Meryll Rogge's work at Marni revisits ’90s silhouettes with a modern twist. Maria Grazia Chiuri at Fendi highlights craftsmanship with a revival of the iconic Baguette bag.
Milan remains a hotspot for emerging designers. Institution By Galib Gassanoff, an LVMH Prize finalist, showcased whimsical gowns at Copenhagen Fashion Week and is among the rising talents to watch. Other notable newcomers include Leandro Cano, known for extravagant gowns, Neithan Herbert’s minimalistic pieces focusing on craftsmanship, and Viktor-Hart, presenting a womenswear collection that blends Ghanaian heritage with Italian craft.
Kristen Bateman, a contributing editor at Harper’s Bazaar, has a diverse background in fashion journalism and continues to cover the latest developments in style and culture.