This month, Paris Fashion Week showcased around 100 fashion houses presenting their Spring/Summer 2027 collections, which are set to hit stores next spring. Co-writers Jacob Tan (JT) and Nesara Shree (NS) discussed the insights and themes that emerged from the shows.
Read More
Nesara Shree emphasizes two key approaches when viewing runway shows: the artistic perspective and the personal. She believes runway fashion can convey aesthetic visions and political messages, prompting a reflection on emotions and identity. Additionally, she looks for style inspirations to reframe her existing wardrobe. Jacob shares a similar outlook but also pays attention to set design, music, and model casting, considering how these elements contribute to a collection's narrative.
One standout show was that of Dior, directed by Jonathan Anderson, whose invitation featured collectible Chinese Wénwán walnuts. This gesture suggested that Dior's legacy is about continual reinterpretation rather than mere preservation of tradition. NS describes the SS27 collection, dominated by sheer materials that suggest lightness and movement. Styles included bralettes paired with frayed organza jackets and translucent trousers, showcasing the concept of liberation from traditional fashion forms.
Jacob notes that this season has seen an emphasis on sheer designs across several brands, including Chanel. He highlights Issey Miyake’s collection titled “Ma,” which symbolized the significance of negative space in art. The collection began with form-fitting resin tops and evolved into garments that became increasingly abstract, illustrating how clothing can redefine bodily shape.
NS points out the historical contrast with Dior's iconic 1947 collection that characterized rigid silhouettes. The SS27 collection represents a departure from strict forms, reflecting contemporary desires for fluidity and transparency. She argues that embracing negative space is increasingly relevant, allowing for a fresh take on designs rooted in traditional sculptural silhouettes.
In discussing trends, Jacob predicts that sheer and flowing styles will be popular in the upcoming spring collections. He mentions brands like Adrian Cashmere and Soshiotsuki as examples of this trend. Nesara observes a move towards visible bras as a fashionable choice, as seen in Prada's show, where bras were prominently styled.
Color trends also emerged, with purple and gold connecting to themes of opulence, indicating a departure from the recent “quiet luxury” aesthetic.
Their conversation concluded with a preview of their next discussion, which will focus on Azzedine Alaia, a designer known for his innovative designs, as they prepare for an exclusive interview with Lauren Carmerlengo, curator of the upcoming Alaia retrospective at the San Francisco Legion of Honor museum.