Clarisse Choo reports on the autumn/winter 2026 womenswear collections from major fashion maisons.

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Alaïa: Pieter Mulier’s final collection for Alaïa focused on designs that are anchored to the body, featuring scoop-neck jersey dresses, tailored leather blazers, double-breasted coats, and velvet pantsuits. The collection emphasized Alaïa's signature blend of discipline and sensuality while showcasing knitted dresses and waterfall skirts that illustrated how precision can evoke luxury. By eliminating bags, jewelry, and excess styling, Mulier created a pared-back aesthetic that highlighted the importance of fit and cut.

Balenciaga: In “Clair-Obscur,” Pierpaolo Piccioli took inspiration from painting, using the human body as a structure within the garments. The collection deconstructed traditional categories of clothing, incorporating formal gowns alongside casual ensembles that reference streetwear, underscoring a blend of the avant-garde with everyday wear.

Balmain: The collection, debuting under new creative director Antonin Tron, revisited the house’s origins from 1945. It showcased minimal opulence with body-enhancing tailoring, fluid draping, and rich textures, while introducing an architectural edge through animal prints, supple leather, and dark tones.

Brunello Cucinelli: Titled “Collection,” this show explored texture as its central theme. It combined British-inspired tailoring, brushed wools, lace, and luxe knits, enhanced by sequins and fringe. The designs celebrated utility and elegance, featuring relaxed silhouettes and a warm, earthy color palette.

Burberry: Daniel Lee directed Burberry’s collection, channeling a glamorous night out in London. The lineup featured reimagined classics like trenches with ruffled collars and a color palette of bordeaux, deep blue, and plum. The collection incorporated innovative layering and refreshed heritage designs for a refined nighttime aesthetic.

Chanel: Matthieu Blazy presented a collection that balanced the essence of Gabrielle Chanel’s fashion philosophy and modernity. His designs merged simplicity with iridescence, featuring refined silhouettes paired with intricate embellishments. The collection conveyed a sense of duality—merging day and night themes while maintaining familiarity with the brand’s motifs.

Chloé: Chemena Kamali drew inspiration from diverse sources, including 19th-century Dutch folk costumes and Karl Lagerfeld’s work at Chloé. The collection showcased prairie blouses, ruffled skirts, and sheer florals, grounded by blazers and quilted outerwear. Notable accessories included horse belts, which anchored various looks, marrying nostalgia with contemporary femininity.