Highlights from the Womenswear Autumn/Winter 2026 Runway Collections

At Dior, Jonathan Anderson transformed the brand’s romantic elements into an aquatic-inspired collection centered on the water lily. The collection featured iridescent pastels and layered textures, including ruffles, sculptural capes, and quilted outerwear. Key pieces included feathered coats, embroidered jeans, and glittering suits, which added a contemporary flair. Accessories such as peanut-shaped clutches and lily-pad earrings complemented the whimsical nature of the collection.

Dries Van Noten’s Julian Klausner reimagined traditional school uniform aesthetics for adults, blending structure and eclecticism. The collection showcased twisted jackets, embroidered ties, and grunge checks, which contrasted with sophisticated bronze jacquard coats. The sophisticated balance of discipline and self-expression was evident, offering a texturally rich experience.

Maria Grazia Chiuri opened Fendi's show with a manifesto stating "Meno Io, Più Noi" (“Less I, more us”). The collection shifted from vibrant colors to a darker, clerical sophistication, beginning with 17 all-black looks. Chiuri incorporated signature pieces such as black lace dresses and sheer fabrics alongside structured coats, layering thoughtfulness throughout the collection.

At Ferragamo, Maximilian Davis drew inspiration from the 1920s speakeasy era, blending elements of class and identity. The collection featured reimagined sailor uniforms paired with eclectic textiles, including chiffon knitwear and shearling-lined parkas. Footwear also recalled the past, showcasing designs that harked back to archival pieces.

Giorgio Armani’s womenswear line focused on revival and discipline, employing a muted color palette of greige and charcoal. This collection emphasized fluid eveningwear alongside structured coats and wide trousers, crafting a balance between freedom and control.

Demna made his runway debut at Gucci with a collection infused with late-’90s influences, showcased through body-conscious silhouettes. Attention-grabbing elements included low-rise trousers and sheer glitter lace, aiming to capture a sensual, internet-era aesthetic. Notable models such as Emily Ratajkowski and Kate Moss were integral to the presentation.

Nadège Vanhée’s collection for Hermès featured sculpted silhouettes that fluidly transitioned between darker and brighter tones. Emphasizing leathercraft, the collection included wrap jackets, corset dresses, and modernist scarf patterns, with varying degrees of structure reflecting a cinematic evolution of Hermès’ riding heritage.