Nicole Phelps and Luke Leitch, who have just arrived in Paris for Fashion Week, shared highlights from Milan Fashion Week on The Run-Through podcast. They began by discussing the Diesel show, which marked the conclusion of Glenn Martens's six-year tenure at the brand as he shifts his focus to Maison Margiela. Luke remarked on Martens's inclusive and sex-positive approach, noting the punk vibe of the show, which featured a couple making out in the front row. He humorously reflected on feeling out of touch with the youthful exuberance on display.
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The conversation also touched on the Prada collection, which emphasized the skirt as a versatile canvas for expression. Luke noted Mrs. Prada's interviews discussing this theme, including a previous appearance on their podcast.
Luke also reported on the Emporio Armani presentation, the last overseen by Leo Dell’Orco and Silvana Armani before Dario Vitale takes over. The show explored the concept of time through innovative textures, including garments adorned with salt crystals, which Luke quipped wouldn't fare well in Paris's rain but found beautiful nonetheless.
Both editors expressed their admiration for Simone Bellotti's latest collection for Jil Sander, calling themselves 'Sanderistas'. They also highlighted Maria Grazia Chiuri’s second ready-to-wear collection for Fendi and Meryll Rogge’s collection for Marni, with Nicole observing a strong connection among young audiences resonating with Rogge's unique blend of 90s and early 2000s references.
Demna had a notable presentation at Gucci following his controversial show in February, unveiling a concept shop that showcased a diversity of styles, appealing to various personas from horse enthusiasts to punk prep-school kids. As the pair prepares for Paris Fashion Week, they are excited for what lies ahead.